Zebra Plant, Zebra Haworthia
Haworthiopsis attenuata ’Super White’
Synonyms of Haworthiopsis attenuata (5) (Updated 12-9-20): Aloe attenuata Haw., Apicra attenuata (Haw.) Willd., Catevala attenuata (Haw.) Kuntze, Haworthia attenuata (Haw.) Haw., Haworthia pumila subsp. attenuata (Haw.) Halda
Accepted intraspecific names (3): Haworthiopsis attenuata var. attenuata (“type” variety), Haworthiopsis attenuata var. glabrata (Salm-Dyck) G.D.Rowley, Haworthiopsis attenuata var. radula (Jacq.) G.D.Rowley
Haworthiopsis attenuata (Haw.) G.D.Rowley is the correct and accepted scientific name for this species of Haworthiopsis. It was named and described as such by Gordon Douglas Rowley in Alsterworthia International in 2015. It was first named and described as Aloe attenuata by Adrian Hardy Haworth in Transactions of the Linnean Society in 1804.
The genus, Haworthiopsis G.D.Rowley, was also named and described by Gordon Douglas Rowley in Alsterworthia International, Special Issue 10:4 in 2013.
Plants of the World Online currently lists 18 accepted species in the Haworthiopsis genus (as of when I am writing this page on 12-8-20). It is a member of the plant family Asphodelaceae with 40 genera. Those numbers could change as updates are made.
Before, the two-lipped flowers were a distinguishing feature of the Haworthia genus. After extensive study, more detailed features of the flowers clearly identified three separate genera (Haworthia, Haworthiopsis, and Tulista). This certainly doesn’t mean the genus names won’t change again. You just never know… You can use whichever name you choose because both scientific names were validly published. It is just that Plants of the World Online by Kew (Royal Botanic Gardens) and whoever is in charge of plant names says Haworthiopsis is now the accepted genus name.
THERE ARE SEVERAL LINKS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE FOR FURTHER READING.
I received this Haworthiopsis ’Super White’ from Nico Britsch of Succulent Market on August 27, 2020. He contacted me with a request to mention his business in a post in exchange for a few plants. How could I refuse that?
I selected five plants, including this Haworthiopsis ’Super White’. The plants were nicely packed and arrived quickly and safely. The plants were in a 4” pot, larger than many you buy online or at retail stores. The Haworthiopsis ’Super White’ was 3 1/4” tall x 5 1/2” wide which is a very good size… I didn’t measure the plants until October 6 when I wrote the post about the plants and Succulent Market. To view the post click HERE.
Nico is the third generation of cactus and succulent growers in California. He said his grandfather selected this Haworthia fasciata over a period of years to have more white on its leaves thus making it better for low light situations. There are MANY cultivars available similar to this one… But, there is an issue with the name…
Origin: Eastern Cape Province in South Africa
Zones: USDA Zones 9b-11 (30 to 40° F/-1.1 to 1.7° C)
Size: 4-8” ? tall x 5-6” wide ?
*Light: Light to part shade. Does not appreciate full, direct sun. 4-6 hours of filtered light is ideal.
**Soil: Fast-draining. If grown in a pot used good quality potting soil amended with 50% pumice, or 2 parts potting soil with 1 part additional perlite and 1 part chicken grit.
***Water: Regular watering during the summer and less during the winter. This is a summer dormant species…
*Haworthiopsis are native of the Eastern Cape Provinces in South Africa where they grow in grassy areas among small shrubs. In this situation, they receive filtered light. Many websites say they need bright light or full sun, but that is not likely the case. If you grow this plant in full sun, the leaves will likely burn. Of course, that depends on your location and how long they are in the sun… I don’t really have many succulents that “prefer” full sun over light to part shade here in midwest Missouri (USA), so they stay on tables on the front porch from May through mid-October on the west side of the house. They receive bright light but not full sun. There are periods of time in the afternoon where they get a little direct sun which also depends on where they are situated. They may get moved around a bit depending on their requirements. Most of the cactus are on the back porch in full sun. During the winter, most of the succulents are on a large shelf (multi-level) in front of a south-facing window in a cool bedroom. Some of them are on a shelf in front of a west-facing window in my bedroom where they receive kind of bright indirect sun. Cactus are not particular about light during the winter. For many years they were on a table in front of an east-facing sliding door in the dining room during the winter. Now they are on the new shelf in my bedroom.
I have not grown any Haworthiopsis (or Haworthia) for many years, and never one like Haworthiopsis attenuata. I have grown many Aloe for MANY years which probably have basically the same requirements. They are all SUMMER DORMANT which means they supposedly take a rest during the hotter months for 6-8 weeks from sometime in July through mid-August. Otherwise, their main growing period is from April through November, or thereabouts. From December through March, they are not exactly dormant, but their growth is slowed down so it is advisable not to hardly ever water during that period either. During their summer dormacy period, their growth above the soil kind of stops, but they are renewing their roots using material from the old roots. SO, during that time, you should avoid giving them too much water as well. Generally, when I water during the summer, I just go over the succulents without overly soaking them.
**When it comes to potting soil, finding the “sweet spot” is not exactly that easy when materials are limited. Cactus and succulent enthusiasts (and experts) do not recommend using peat-based commercial mixes but what choice is there for most of us. They say to use a loam-based mix… Hmmm… Our soil is loam, so do I just use dirt? Well, no because “dirt” is heavy and you need a “light” material. There is A LOT of cactus and succulent recipes online and some get pretty elaborate. Many say to use sand as an ingredient, but if you do that, it needs to be very coarse, like builders sand, because “ordinary” sand, like for sandboxes, is too fine and it clogs up the air space between the coarser ingredients. For MANY years I used 2 parts Miracle Grow or Schultz Potting amended with an additional 1 part of perlite and 1 part chicken grit. Schultz doesn’t seem to have as many large pieces of bark. Cactus and succulent enthusiasts recommended using pumice instead of perlite and grit so I checked it out… The “guy” at General Pumice (online) recommended using a 50/50 mix of potting soil and pumice. General Pumice has 3 different sizes to choose from depending on the size of the pot. SO, in 2018 I bought a bag of 1/8″ and mixed it 50/50 with Miracle Grow Potting Soil. I liked it pretty well. Then in 2020, since most of the cactus were in larger pots, I ordered the 1/4″ size. Pumice has a lot of benefits over perlite and has nutrients that are added to the soil when watering. Pumice is also heavier so it stays mixed in the soil instead of “floating” to the top. Still, there is the issue of the mix getting very hard once you stop watering the plants during the winter when you stop watering. I think this is because of the peat in the potting soil… SO, instead of re-potting the cactus and succulents in the spring, I started doing it during the fall and winter so their soil would be loose. Since you don’t water as frequently during the winter if at all, the timed-release fertilizer does not activate. I have not tried coir, but I am looking into it…
***I water my cactus and succulents on a regular basis during the summer but barely ever in the winter (maybe a little in January) until close to time to take them back outside.
I have not grown any Haworthiopsis (or Haworthia) for many years, and never one like Haworthiopsis attenuata. I have grown many Aloe for MANY years which probably have basically the same requirements. They are listed as SUMMER DORMANT which means they supposedly take a rest during the hotter months for 6-8 weeks from sometime in July through mid-August. Otherwise, their main growing period is from April through November, or thereabouts. From December through March, they are not exactly dormant, but their growth is slowed down so it is advisable not to hardly ever water during that period either. During their summer dormacy period, their growth above the soil kind of stops, but they are renewing their roots using material from the old roots. SO, during that time, you should avoid giving them too much water as well. Generally, when I water during the summer, I just go over the succulents without overly soaking them. Their leaves store water, so if you water more in May through June, it will carry them through July through August. Then, if you water more in
When you bring your new plants home from the store, you need to check their roots and the soil to see if they are wet. If so, you may want to re-pot it right away. It is advisable to re-pot them in a better potting soil more suitable for cactus and succulents.
Well, besides the genus name changing, the species of this plant is likely NOT Haworthiopsis fasciata. I am not a Haworthia/Haworthiopsis expert, but judging by the leaves, this plant is a Haworthiopsis attenuata… Haworthiopsis attenuata has leaves that are narrower and longer, and have “tubercles” on the lower surface like Haworthiopsis fasciata, but also on the upper surface. Haworthiopsis fasciata only have the tubercles on the undersides of the leaves while the upper surface is smooth. According to information online, Haworthiopsis fasciata is rarer (while available online), and Haworthiopsis attenuata is more readily available. Also, Haworthiopsis fasciata has fibrous leaves and H. attenuata does not and the latter is supposedly a larger plant. They both subdivide and offset readily and prefer growing in a cluster.
When I was writing this page on December 8, I took a couple more photos and noticed the potting soil was very hard. SO, I mixed enough Miracle Grow Potting Soil and pumice (50/50) and gave it a fresh mix. I left it in the same pot that it came in because it is still big enough (4″). After that, I put it on the shelf in my bedroom. It’s amazing how much I learn when I am writing plant pages…
As I mentioned earlier, I have not had any Haworthia/Haworthia companions for quite a long time. I had a Haworthia emelyae and H. herbacea in 2009 when I was a succulent newbie and I overwatered them and they eventually died. Well, I think they were both a more delicate species in the first place. The Haworthiopsis attenuata ‘Super White’ is apparently not that delicate so I don’t see any future problems with it as long as I follow the “rules” which seem pretty simple.
I hope you enjoyed this page and maybe found it useful. If you have any comments, questions, or suggestions, I would like to hear from you. Please click on “like” if you can and have visited this page. It helps us bloggers stay motivated. 🙂 You can check out the links below for further reading. The links take you directly to the genus and species of this plant. Some sites may not be updated to the current accepted scientific name or just choose to use the previous one. Also, some information about growing plants reflects the author’s opinion and not necessarily what I would recommend… You can always email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.